AMBRA

WEST MIDTOWN'S NEWEST ARRIVAL
By:Tom Maicon
January 15,2003

Last weeks Pick of the Week – this weeks review. Many of you that have become accustomed to my style are probably asking yourselves, how come he's doing a review on a place that's less than ninety days old? It's normally against my nature to do such a deed. So we'll just call this a check-up on the progress of West Midtowns newcomer, Ambra.
 

Located in another one of Atlanta's renovated warehouses called the Lumber Yard Lofts, it's awkwardly placed and a little difficult to find. Ambra joins some pretty good company positioned near Pangaea, Commune, Taqueria Del Sol and I couldn't leave out the infamous Bacchanalia.

 

The décor is hip, chic and lofty. One wall consists of exposed brick and warehouse windows the other is warm and lined with colorful art. Straight back is the bar and a partially open kitchen. Above the bar there is a big blue overhang that dramatically unfolds towards the dining area. A lot goes on with the motif but it does come together nicely!
 

Ambra serves an unexpected mix of Southwestern and Mediterranean cuisine and often combines the two influences within the same dish. When I first saw the menu and made my way through the pizzas, quesadillas, tacos, burritos, Mediterranean roasted corn chow-chow, bean stews and calamari bouncing back and forth from Southwestern to Mediterranean tastes it appeared to be a place trying to be everything to everybody, a restaurant without focus. Leave it up to Kelly Goggin (Owner) and John McGarry (Chef) to prove me wrong! They have found a way to combine two completely different fares that are separated by a gazillion miles and execute them as if they were meant for each other.
 

Mussels in tomato-cilantro broth

I recommend starting at the calamari with tomato fondue and caper aioli. Don't let the word fondue confuse you; it's actually a cold creamy pink sauce that will immediately excite your palate. Speaking of sauces - the tomatillo sauce that is served with the chips & salsa is so good you'll keep sending your server on a quest for more dipping ammo. Amazing how one innocent little green sauce created such a feeding frenzy out of two mild mannered grazers!

The Mediterranean mussels were large and sweet, much larger than the PEI's seen here in the photo. They were piled high in a nearly balanced tomatillo-cilantro broth. Could use just a little tweeking on this one.
 

Red Chili Pork Tacos

The designer pizzas – are well crafted and I can't find much bad to say however, you may find yourself wishing you had ordered the more flavorful red chile pork (Puerco Colorado) taco or burrito instead. It's a pulled pork with a red chile sauce not really spicy just a nice balance of flavors. Each taco is folded with two tortillas – the outer layer tortilla is slightly crisped on one side as if touched by the wood fire grill momentarily.

GrilledPork Tenderloin

When it comes to the entrees I'll just jump right into the grilled pork tenderloin. The pork is cooked on a wood fire grill, which gives off a nice aroma. It's served with charros bean stew and a roasted corn chow-chow that's full of zest and life mainly from a strong dose of balsamic vinaigrette. The best dish in the house at the time, however the menu has changed and a lobster burrito has been added. I just placed this on my 'things to do' list!

A swordfish special was served slightly overcooked (medium) but was still worth eating every drop. The only reason I bring up the fact that it was slightly overcooked was because the waitress had taken the time to explain to us that properly prepared swordfish was served between medium rare and medium. I wonder if she picked this up from Chef Richard Blais' Chefs Talk this month?

 

Apple Crisp

A warm decadent apple crisp anchored in caramel sauce and topped with butter pecan ice cream leads the dessert menu. I've already eaten this same dessert three times! Need I say more? I gave it the usual split with my companion; 80% for me – 20% for her – and everybody's happy!

I believe Ambra will progress into bigger and better things. Expect a few stumbles for now – it's only eight weeks old. However the staff has a remarkable way of recovering without damage. It will be interesting to see the progress of this restaurant over the next six months and even the next year!